The modern version of the brewery, which has occupied a high-profile space in the Auraria campus’ student union for a decade, and the organization that runs the facilities shared by three onsite colleges weren’t able to come to a lease agreement after months of negotiations, according to Devra Ashby, Auraria’s marketing and communications director.

“Since 2015, [Tivoli] has been an integral part of the Auraria Campus, contributing to the campus community and collaborating on educational initiatives until 2021,” Ashby said in a statement. “While brewing operations on campus ceased in fall 2023, the Tivoli Tap House served as a gathering space for students, faculty, staff, and the broader Denver community. We appreciate Tivoli’s contributions over the years and extend our best wishes for their future endeavors.”

Auraria is currently “in discussions” with a potential replacement, she added.

Although the taproom is closed, the brewery will continue to operate a production facility in the southeastern Colorado town of La Junta, where it primarily makes a lager called Outlaw Light. The Tivoli name is also still attached to the taproom at Denver International Airport, but the company is no longer connected to the space, which is run by an airport concessionaire called SSP America.

The original Tivoli brewery was founded in 1900 in the same building as the new one, at 1900 Auraria Parkway. The company and its owners had brewing roots on that site dating back to 1859, however, a year after Denver’s founding. Tivoli was one of just a handful of Colorado breweries to survive prohibition and later became one of the largest beer makers in the West. It went out of business, though, in 1969, for several reasons, including a strike and a flood.

In 2012, Corey Marshall, a former Coors executive who had been a bouncer at a bar that was located in the student union building in the 1990s, began researching and collecting old Denver beer trademarks and brands from the 1800s and early 1900s. His goal — as the craft beer industry began to boom — was to update some of the beers and sell them to thirsty Denver residents.

In 2015, Marshall struck a deal with AHEC to reopen in the Tivoli building, adding modern brewing equipment, but keeping some of the historic kettles that remained as decoration. But by 2018, Marshall had left and been replaced by a new ownership group. During the COVID-19 pandemic, conditions got even worse as the campus was shut down.

In recent years, CEO Ari Opsahl has steered the company away from its historic beers and toward Outlaw Light, which has been selling well, according to the company.

Last year, Opsahl told The Denver Post that he hoped to find “a mutually amicable path forward.

“The taphouse is a cornerstone for the campus,” Opsahl said then, pointing out that the brewery and the building share a name. “We love it, but operating there is a challenge, as it is pretty dead all summer (when classes aren’t in session). We can’t even break even.

“We want to be there,” he added. “But have to find a way to make it work for both parties.”

Subscribe to our new food newsletter, Stuffed, to get Denver food and drink news sent straight to your inbox.

Hot cross buns are an Easter specialty with a light, enriched crumb that’s studded with currants and flavored with a gentle mix of warm spices and a hint of citrus. While some versions are drizzled with icing, we prefer a traditional semi-sweet, flour-based “cross” etched across the top.

This recipe from our book “ Milk Street Bakes ” mostly sticks to tradition but amps up the flavor. We enrich the dough with tangy buttermilk instead of regular milk, along with orange zest and a little Lyle’s Golden Syrup for its bittersweet caramel notes. Lyle’s Golden Syrup is an amber-hued sweetener common to the U.K.; mild clover honey works equally well if you can’t find the iconic green can of syrup.

We plump the currants in bourbon, which enhances the flavors in the spice mix, then use the currant-flavored bourbon to make a shiny glaze.

The work is spread over a couple days so the buns can be baked and served for breakfast or brunch. If you wish to bake the buns the same day, after shaping them, let them rise at room temperature until just shy of doubled, about an hour. Halfway into rising, heat the oven and prepare the egg wash and piping mixture. Once doubled, brush the buns with egg wash and pipe on the crosses, then bake and glaze as directed. Store extra buns in an airtight container up to three days; rewarm wrapped in foil in a 300°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes.

Don’t heat the buttermilk to bring it to room temperature. Buttermilk curdles easily; it’s best to let it stand at room temperature. And don’t forget to pat the currants dry after draining their soaking liquid. Additional moisture can make the rather sticky dough difficult to handle when shaping.

Hot Cross Buns

Start to finish: 13 hours (1¼ hours active), plus cooling

Makes 12 buns

Ingredients:

For the dough:

93 grams (⅔ cup) dried currants

⅓ cup bourbon

1 cup buttermilk, room temperature

1 large egg, plus 1 large egg yolk

3 tablespoons Lyle’s Golden Syrup (see headnote) or honey

1 tablespoon grated orange zest

411 grams (3 cups) bread flour, plus more for dusting

2¼ teaspoons instant yeast

¾ teaspoon table salt

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

57 grams (4 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into 4 pieces, room temperature

For the egg wash and piping mixture:

1 large egg

34 grams (¼ cup) bread flour

For the glaze:

Bourbon, as needed

2 tablespoons Lyle’s Golden Syrup or honey

Instructions:

To make the dough, in a small microwave-safe bowl, stir the currants and bourbon. Microwave, uncovered, on high until warm, about 30 seconds, stirring once. Stir again, then set aside until plump, about 15 minutes. Drain in a fine-mesh strainer set over a small bowl; reserve the liquid. Turn the currants onto a paper towel-lined plate and pat dry; set aside.

In a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or small bowl, whisk the buttermilk, whole egg, egg yolk, golden syrup and orange zest. In a stand mixer with the dough hook, mix the flour, yeast, salt, cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg on low until combined, about 20 seconds. With the mixer running, add the buttermilk mixture; mix until a shaggy dough forms, about 45 seconds. Increase to medium-low and knead until sticky and elastic, 8 to 10 minutes; if the dough climbs up the hook, occasionally push it off.

With the mixer running on medium-low, add the butter 1 piece at a time, mixing until almost fully incorporated, about 30 seconds; scrape the bowl as needed. Knead on medium-low until shiny and once again elastic, 3 to 5 minutes. Scrape the dough off the hook. With the mixer running on medium-low, add the currants in 2 batches. Knead until distributed throughout the dough, 1 to 2 minutes. Detach the bowl from the mixer and use a silicone spatula to scrape the bowl and gather the dough at the center. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled, 1 to 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, mist a 9-by-13-inch baking pan or baking dish with cooking spray. Line the pan with a 12-by-16-inch piece of parchment positioned so the excess overhangs the pan’s long sides. Mist the parchment with cooking spray; set aside.

When the dough has doubled, lightly flour the counter and turn the dough out onto it. Divide into 12 portions, each about 77 grams (2½ ounces). Form each into a taut ball by rolling it against the counter in a circular motion under a cupped hand. Place seam-side down in the prepared pan, arranging them in 3 rows of 4. Mist a sheet of plastic wrap with cooking spray and drape over the pan, then cover loosely with a kitchen towel. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.

About 2 hours before you are ready to bake, remove the buns from the refrigerator. Let stand at room temperature, covered, until almost doubled, 1½ to 2 hours.

About 1 hour into rising, in a small bowl, beat the egg for the wash until well combined; set aside. In another small bowl, combine the flour and 2½ tablespoons water; whisk until smooth. The mixture should form a thick paste that falls slowly from the whisk and mounds on itself in the bowl; if too thick, whisk in more water a few drops at a time. Transfer to a quart-size, zip-close bag. Press out the air and push the mixture to one corner; twist the bag to keep the batter contained in the corner; set aside. Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position.

When the buns have doubled, brush them with egg wash (you will not need to use all of the egg). With the piping mixture still pushed to the corner of the bag, use scissors to snip off ⅛ to ¼ inch from the tip of the bag. Pipe a continuous line across the center of each row of buns, then pipe a continuous line down the center of each column of buns, creating a cross on the center of each bun. Bake until the buns are deep golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the glaze. Measure the bourbon reserved from soaking the currants, then supplement with additional bourbon to total 3 tablespoons. In a small saucepan, combine the bourbon and syrup. Simmer over medium, stirring, until lightly syrupy and reduced to about 3 tablespoons, about 2 minutes; set aside off heat.

When the buns are done, set the pan on a wire rack and immediately brush with the glaze. Cool for 10 minutes. Using the parchment sling, lift the buns from the pan and set directly on the rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Above the family name was the number 100. What began as a humble mom-and-pop grocer and butcher shop a century ago is now a well-greased sausage factory, selling its products to big-name distributors such as Shamrock Foods, US Foods and Sysco, which get them to major sporting venues such as Ball Arena and Coors Field.

Later this month, the brother-and-sister duo behind the sausage links will transfer their delivery system to Dot Transportation, a food redistribution company that will bring Polidori Sausage to all 50 states, Melodie Polidori Harris said. It’s a significant undertaking for the family and company, one that she and her brother, Steve Polidori, are not taking lightly as they strive to make Polidori a household name around the country.

Passing distribution duties on to Dot Transportation is “scary and exciting at the same time,” said Polidori, who bought the business from his grandfather in 2001 and brought his sister on board the following year. The company has grown exponentially after decades of “small, sustained growth,” he said, at the same time keeping its recipes and business mantra simple.

“Isn’t the sausage fun enough on its own?” he asked from inside Coors Field, where Polidori Sausage expanded this season to three standalone concessions. A chorizo brat, a hatch chile-and-cheese brat and a jalapeño-cheddar brat are all on the menu and stacked with grilled corn, onions and even more peppers and cheese.

The siblings’ great-grandparents were Italian immigrants who met in Magna, Utah, and moved to Denver to open their grocery store in 1925. Their grandfather, Louis Polidori, and great-uncle took over and ran the store for decades.

Their parents were far removed from the business, their father an attorney and mother a retired judge. Steve Polidori joined his grandfather at the family’s meat-processing facility while studying at Colorado State University in the early ’90s and stayed on after graduation.

“I’d call my restaurants, get their orders for the week, make the sausage and then deliver it,” he said. On a good week, the plant would prepare 5,000 pounds of raw sausage.

Now, at the company’s facility in the Park Hill neighborhood, where Polidori Sausage relocated nine years ago, they are moving 80,000 to 100,000 pounds a week, Polidori said. About 80 percent of that, Polidori Harris estimated, are orders from restaurants, stadiums, hotels and colleges.

Its newest client is Anthony’s Pizza and Pasta, Polidori Harris said, a Colorado franchise with 18 locations in the state.

“Their century-long, family-run legacy in Colorado aligns perfectly with our values and commitment to quality,” Anthony’s CEO Garrett Brizendine said in a statement. “You’ll soon see their bold, authentic flavor featured in several of our sausage-based items — a true local collaboration we’re proud to share.”

The siblings and Polidori Harris’ son, William Polidori Harris, were at McGregor Square for a pregame mixer organized by the team for its major supporters and partners. After seven years inside the stadium, their brats are now in almost every concession, Melodie said. Her brother still gets excited every time their company logo and last name flash on the stadium’s digital banners.

William represents the fifth generation of the Polidori Sausage family. He did so proudly at the game, crowned in a black cap with “SAUSAGE” written on the front. He attended CSU and joined the company soon after, first with human resources and now as part of the sales team.

“I order a lot of pork and a lot of spices,” he said, adding that customers in general are trending toward a “clean label” like that of the family’s recipes.

As much as the family would like to keep control of their growth, it hasn’t felt that way this year, Melodie Polidori Harris said. The jump from the company’s current delivery system to Dot Transportation will spread its sausage links across the country. The larger customer base and consolidation of purchase orders has felt like a big responsibility for the family name, she said.

“We’re so used to holding the hands of our customers, and it’s gonna take some of that away,” she said, her eyes gazing steadily at the future.

And they’ve got a solid history to brag about: Later this month, Polidori Sausage and other Colorado organizations turning 100 will be honored at the 2025 Business Awards hosted by the Denver Metro Chamber of Commerce.

Subscribe to our new food newsletter, Stuffed, to get Denver food and drink news sent straight to your inbox.

“Is writing a letter and copying 140 people on it the best way to go? Sometimes,” the owner of Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar said of the email he sent in early February. “Sometimes you got to make a lot of noise. The squeaky wheel gets the grease.”

An increased police presence, which Johnston announced at a news conference earlier this month, is the main reason Query is optimistic about LoDo’s future.

A four-person, mounted horse patrol unit, 10 extra officers and a safety hub kiosk at 16th and Arapahoe streets are among the changes Johnston announced to improve conditions along the 16th Street Mall. He also touted additional private security presence and expanded mental health and paramedic support for the area.

“That’s all we were asking for,” Query said. “Let’s reinstate law and order down here so that if people need help, they get the help they need and they’re not just left on the corner to just be unhinged for hours at a time.”

Query is hopeful that downtown infrastructure, like sidewalks and trees, will get cleaned up too. This is the first year the city is responsible for sidewalk repairs and maintenance following a 2022 ballot measure.

He said a decrepit Westword distribution box in front of Jax, which is at the corner of 17th and Wazee, and a dumpster taking up two parking spaces have already been moved by the city.

“This is your marquee, showcase, tourist destination,” he said. “When you got big roll-off dumpsters, the (parking) meters are bagged, the sidewalks and the curbs are all cracked, the tree wells are broken, some of the trees are dead. It’s like, ‘Wow, this place really needs some love.’ And they’re promising that love.”

Query said he and a group of LoDo restaurateurs and business owners met with Johnston, Police Chief Ron Thomas and Adeeb Khan, the director of Denver’s Economic Development and Opportunity office, in early March, going line-by-line through his February letter for 90 minutes.

Query noted that the city officials agreed with most of the letter and promised to come back with a plan to address his big asks, like more police, better infrastructure and parking solutions.

Query said he met with the group a second time on April 2 after Johnston’s news conference, where they laid out how the new initiative corresponds to Query’s original complaints.

Though Query had nothing but positive things to say about interacting with the city, he noted that follow-through still needs to happen. He said things like Colorado’s use of personal recognizance bonds, which allow someone to get released from jail without paying bail as long as they promise to appear in court, need to change too.

“(Cops are) walking into situations where they don’t have the authority they need to do the job, to enforce the laws,” he said. “They’re just there to be babysitters at times.

“But I do think (more police downtown) will create an uncomfortable situation,” he added. “Nobody wants to party with their parents, so you go to where your parents aren’t.”

As far as parking goes, Query said he thinks the increased patrol will lead to better enforcement of meters with yellow no-parking bags on them from Wednesday through Friday. He said oftentimes the city doesn’t take them off when they should at 11:59 p.m. on Fridays, effectively eliminating parking throughout the weekend.

He also said getting food trucks more spaces in front of empty storefronts rather than closer to open retailers is another necessary step to open up more parking spaces. He said Seattle and Portland, Oregon, which have parks and alleys dedicated to the mobile kitchens, are good examples to follow.

“It’s not a light switch. It’s going to take a minute. And that’s cool. … Of course it’s going to take a minute,” he said. “But just the whole energy and positioning and what seemed to be a real forthright commitment to, ‘Yes, we hear you. Yes, we agree with some, if not most, of what you’re saying, … and that we’re committed to making it right for downtown.’”

Story via BusinessDen

Get more Colorado news by signing up for our daily Your Morning Dozen email newsletter.

Beer is supposed to be fun. Yes, brewing is full of history and tradition and skill, but the reason for its existence in modern society is as a social lubricant, a communal endeavor. And fun.

And you won’t find a more pure expression of that notion than at Collaboration Fest, an annual beer gathering that brings together 180 breweries, primarily from Colorado, and 140 beers — all made specifically for this event.

The brewers can make anything they want, as long as they do it with someone else: another brewery, several other breweries, another business or organization. The beers they make can be serious attempts at experimentation, one-off larks, ironic statements or simply an excuse for people to spend a day or two together during a work week.

This year’s fest, which takes place Saturday, April 19, from 2 to 6 p.m. at The Westin Westminster, 10600 Westminster Blvd., is no different. If you go (tickets are $20-$95 and available at collaborationfest.com), you’ll find something to shock, soothe or satisfy any palate.

Here are some of the most interesting, unusual and fun beer collabs on the taplist.

• Woods Boss Brewing and Oregon’s Silver Moon Brewing reconvened to make Stihl Crazy (After All These Years), a beer they last made six years ago. To do it, the brewers ran hot wort from the kettle down the channel of a split 12-foot section of a pine tree. The goal is to impart the character of the tree into the resulting beer, a Norwegian farmhouse-style saison.
• You wouldn’t blink an eye at a Southeast Asian restaurant if the menu listed a spicy peanut sauce made with sriracha sauce. In a beer, though? No matter. Verboten Brewing in Loveland and Gravity Brewing in Louisville will be serving Peanut Butter Sriracha Imperial Porter. The goal, according to the breweries, is to “make something weird but not too weird.”
• The brewers at Mountain Toad Brewing in Golden and Evergreen Brewery decided to make a beer with fonio, an ancient West African grain that is drought-resistant and sustainably grown, according to the collaboration notes. It’s also relatively new to the brewing world. “Brewing with fonio and pilsner malt created a unique beer with aromas and flavors of white wine, lychee, and citrus with a soft, rounded finish.” The beer is called Friend of Fonio.
• Pouring beer is an art form in the Czech Republic, so much so that even foam gets a style designation all its own, called mliko. In fact, in some bars, you can drink just the foam, which, when meted out with specially screened, side-pouring faucet taps, has a rich and creamy feel that is fun to drink (and to make a foam mustache out of). A handful of local breweries offer mliko pours, including Wild Provisions Beer Project in Boulder, which has partnered with Denver’s Great Divide Brewing on TmavYeti, a Czech-style dark lager, tmave, that was aged in whiskey barrels and will be blended with more lager and poured as mliko.
• For its unusual collaboration, Aurora’s Cheluna Brewing teamed up with Oaxaca Brewing in Mexico to make Red Tepache Sour. Made with fermented pineapple rinds and colored with cochineal, a traditional natural dye, the beer harkens back to pre-Columbian times, when tepache originated. This version also includes cinnamon and clove.

Subscribe to our new food newsletter, Stuffed, to get Denver food and drink news sent straight to your inbox.

Colorado distillers are raising a toast to this new standard of identity for domestic whiskey, one that formally defines what ingredients can be used and how American single malt should be made. Instituted in December by the federal alcohol regulators, the designation joins vaunted labels like bourbon, rye and Irish Whiskey. This is the first time since 1968 that the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau has added a new one.

While U.S. distilleries have been making single malt spirits for a long time, local whiskey producers believe the designation will allow them to better compete with powerhouses like Scotland and Japan. They are also confident that Colorado can take the lead in popularizing American single malt, thanks to the state’s strong beer heritage, which has cultivated a generation of distillers familiar with using its base ingredient, one that is frequently grown here as well.

“Colorado was and is at the forefront of craft beer in the country. We have a lot of people like me, who were brewers, who understand malt and who started distilling and making malt whiskey,” said Craig Engelhorn, co-founder and master distiller at Spirit Hound Distillers in Lyons. “Just like we were pioneers in the ’90s with craft beer, we’re pioneers now with malt whiskey.”

Creating a category

The TTB defines American single malt whiskey as a beverage made from 100% malted barley that is mashed, distilled and matured in the U.S.

It must be aged in oak barrels that are a maximum of 700 liters (185 gallons) and bottled at least 40% alcohol by volume. While the spirit is required to be distilled entirely at one distillery, the definition leaves room for companies to either make it in-house or source it from another producer.

The parameters were largely informed by whiskey producers, who spent the nine years lobbying regulators. The movement started in 2016, when Steve Hawley, then working at Seattle’s Westland Distillery, convened with eight other spirit makers at a Binny’s Beverage Depot in Chicago. The group’s objective: To find consensus about what makes American single malt whiskeys distinct.

The meeting took roughly one hour and catalyzed the American Single Malt Whiskey Commission, which took the lead advocating for the code update on behalf of U.S. producers. (The spelling of “whiskey” differs across organizations. (The TTB uses “whisky” in its American single malt definition, but for clarity, The Denver Post will spell the word as “whiskey” in this story.)

Hawley, who serves as president of the commission, submitted a formal petition to regulators shortly after that initial meeting. As the rulemaking process inched forward over the years, the organization worked to “spread the gospel” of American single malt whiskey, rallying distillers, maltsters and liquor stores around its cause. Today, it boasts 113 members.

What galvanized so many producers, Hawley said, was an opportunity to level the playing field between American-made spirits and the world’s most coveted Scotch and Japanese single malts.

“America has been known for bourbon for such a long time, but it’s not the only kind of whiskey that’s being made here,” Hawley said. American single malt “stands toe to toe with Scotch whiskey, Japanese whiskey and whiskey being made all over the world.

“I think what you’ll find with American single malt whiskey is, in a broad sense, a very intentional approach to be distinct — to have our own voice in the world of single malt,” he added, “not just be a copy of Scotch or to replicate what other people are doing.”

Colorado’s role

Malted barley is the primary ingredient used to make beer and the majority of whiskeys, and many local distillers transitioned to the spirits industry after cutting their chops at breweries.

That means local drinkers have access to some of the best single malt whiskeys in the country, said Spirit Hound’s Englehorn, who helped develop the original recipe for Dale’s Pale Ale in the early 2000s while he was a brewer at Oskar Blues.

Spirit Hound sells six different single malts, including one called Colorado Honey, which is finished in barrels used to store local honey. It was awarded the title of American Single Malt Whiskey of the Year at the 2024 London Spirits Competition.

It’s not only the technique that sets Colorado single malt whiskey apart, however. Many craft distillers use locally grown barley, which gives their spirits a sense of place and showcases the Rocky Mountain terroir, said Justin Aden, head blender at Stranahan’s in Denver.

Stranahan’s has been making exclusively single malt whiskey since it was founded in 2004. Every spirit starts with the same base recipe: A 100% malted two-row barley mash that’s fermented off the grain husks, distilled and then aged for at least four years in new American white oak barrels. After that, Aden gets to have some fun concocting various flavors by finishing the spirits in different casks – like those previously used for sherry or rum – and by blending different ages together for complexity.

But what makes Stranhan’s whiskey distinct is the Colorado grains, most of which are grown on the Front Range, Aden said. He expects distilleries in other states to use their own barley in single malt whiskeys as well, in order to highlight local agricultural communities. (That’s why the growth of American single malt whiskey is a potential boon for farmers, Engelhorn said.)

“There’s a whole bunch of varietals of barley that grow in different regions of the country better than others,” Aden said. “That’s a really fun thing for whiskey geeks to discover.”

To commemorate the new federal designation, Stranahan’s will soon debut a new blend called Founder’s Release. The 12-year-old whiskey is one of its oldest and highest-proof expressions, clocking in at 60% alcohol by volume. It’s expected to be available for sale in late spring for $199.99.

Flavor and creativity

What most excites Ironton head distiller Laura Walters is the opportunity for creativity and innovation. The single malt definition mandates that distillers use 100% malted barley, but it doesn’t specify what kind or how it is roasted, which creates room for experimentation.

For example, her flagship American Straight Malt Whiskey features 60% specialty malts roasted to various levels, drawing out different sugars and flavors. But a recipe Walters developed for Colorado State University athletics featured a different ratio of base malts and specialty malts, which created an entirely new flavor profile.

The freedom to design a mash bill like this, plus the ability to leverage barrels and even elevation, means there’s an almost endless well of flavor combinations to play with. “Everybody talks about terroir in wine, but it’s definitely a thing with whiskey, too,” she said. “Even in our state alone, a barrel that is aged at Denver’s level is going to be totally different than a barrel in Aspen.”

Or even in the Boulder County town of Louisville, where Ironton Distillery is moving its production at some point in the next few years.

So, how will American single malt sell? Hawley said he hopes to see new sections at liquor stores denoting the style to help customers more easily identify it. But one of the best ways to try the local tipples remains bellying up where they’re made.

“Go out there, try new single malts, support local distilleries,” Walters said. “It’s an exciting time.”

Subscribe to our new food newsletter, Stuffed, to get Denver food and drink news sent straight to your inbox.

These cheese latkes were the most common type in Ashkenazi communities until the 19th century, when the potato was introduced in Eastern Europe. At that time, the most inexpensive and readily available cooking fat was schmaltz. As potatoes gained popularity in Eastern Europe, they were quickly embraced, and today, latkes are almost synonymous with potatoes.

Yield: Makes 2 dozen.

INGREDIENTS

2 large Russet potatoes (scrubbed and cut lengthwise into quarters)

1 large onion (peeled and cut into quarters)

2 large eggs

½ cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil (for frying)

Sour cream (as a condiment at the table)

DIRECTIONS

1. Grate the potatoes and onion. Transfer the mixture to a clean dishtowel and wring out as much liquid as possible. Transfer the potatoes and onions to a large bowl. Add the eggs, flour, salt, baking powder, and pepper. Mix until the flour is absorbed.

2. Pour about ¼-inch of oil into a large skillet and heat over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, drop a heaping tablespoon of the batter into the skillet for each latke (cook in batches.) Use a spatula to flatten and shape the drops into discs. Cook for about five minutes, then carefully flip the latkes over. Cook the second side for five minutes. Transfer the latkes to paper towels to absorb excess oil. Sprinkle with coarse salt while still warm, and cover with more paper towels to keep the latkes warm.

3. Repeat the cooking process until all the batter is used. Serve with sour cream at the table.

Tip: Latkes can be made with additional ingredients such as cheese, onion, carrot, and zucchini.

Randy Graham is a private chef and author whose cookbooks include “The Ojai Valley Cookbook,” “The Ojai Valley Vegetarian” and the “The Ojai Valley Vegan.” He has been a vegetarian since 1975 and enjoys cooking for friends and family using ingredients from backyard vegetable and herb gardens.

The trio behind Dio Mio’s squid ink pasta and Redeemer Pizza’s smoldering slices may or may not answer that question when they open two new restaurants that bear his name.

The first, Little Johnny B’s, will take over for Roberta’s, a Brooklyn-based pizzeria that opened last fall inside the newish, 16-room Urban Cowboy boutique hotel, at 1665 Grant St. in Capitol Hill. It will serve up wood-fired pies, along with salads and Italian-inspired snacks, at the Public House bar on the property starting April 21. (It will also provide room service.)

Urban Cowboy didn’t say why Roberta’s — long touted as being part and parcel with the hotel — was closing. A statement said the move would give Urban Cowboy a chance to work with local restaurateurs, that Roberta’s would focus on new and existing locations nationwide, and that the partnership between the two would continue in other cities.

But it worked out well for Spencer White, Alex Figura and Lulu Clair, the founding partners behind Dio Mio and Redeemer, which are both located on Upper Larimer Street in the River North Art District.

“It felt like too good of an opportunity to pass up,” Clair said.

That’s in part because their company, Mamas & Papas Hospitality Group, also plans to open a much bigger concept, Johnny Bechamel’s, this summer at 81 S. Pennsylvania St. The kitchen there will turn out pastas like the ones that garnered Dio Mio recommendations from the Michelin Guide in recent years, as well as sourdough pizzas that can be eaten in house or to go.

Compared to their RiNo establishments, the new restaurants “are more of a look into who we are as people,” Clair said.

The pizza at Little Johnny B’s will be different from Redeemer or Johnny Bechamel’s because of the hotel’s wood-fired oven, Clair said.

As for Johnny Bechamel himself, Clair was happy to partake in some myth-building about the fictional character. When asked who he was, she said his grandparents own a pizza shop in New Jersey and that his previous stint was at Olive Garden.

Subscribe to our new food newsletter, Stuffed, to get Denver food and drink news sent straight to your inbox.

Some of them have been waiting years for construction timelines to gradually unfold.

Related: Four more local restaurants land at Denver International Airport

The Bagel Deli

Family-owned for three generations, the Bagel Deli — which operates its five-decade-old diner on East Hampden Avenue — is now open in the Concourse A Marketplace, serving “fresh bagels, stacked sandwiches, and authentic deli fare — perfect for a quick, satisfying meal before your flight or to take on the plane,” restaurant reps said.

The Bindery

Originally slated to open in early 2023, The Bindery will be serving its popular dishes — soups, salads, fish and more — near gates 24 and 26 in Concourse A. A spokesperson for the airport said it is now on track to open in May. (Its liquor license permit is currently pending with Denver’s excise and license department, which is a good sign.)

Cholon Modern Bistro

This popular Asian fusion concept from chef Lon Symensma opened in mid-December in Concourse C near Gate 62. The menu features “signature dishes inspired by Southeast Asia and Western Europe … from savory dim sum offerings to wok-fried creations,” DIA representatives said.

D Bar

Keegan Gerhard was one of Denver’s first star chefs, and although his cafe in Denver’s Uptown neighborhood has closed, he still runs a location in Central Park, specializing in desserts and other sweet treats. This weekend, D Bar’s newest location is scheduled to open near Gate A38 at DIA.

Finch on the Fly

An offshoot of longtime Denver cafe, Olive & Finch, this grab-and-go kiosk opened for business on Jan. 29 in Concourse A, serving “high-quality, healthy and affordable fare” from chef Mary Nguyen. Olive & Finch is in the midst of a big expansion that includes two new locations downtown.

Marczyk Fine Foods

This specialty neighborhood market with two locations in Denver has now expanded into DIA, where it sells a section of grab-and-go items; a curated menu of fresh-made, locally sourced sandwiches; salads and snacks. There is also a full wine and beer bar. Located near Gate C62.

Maria Empanada

Lorena Cantarovici opened her newest Denver restaurant earlier this year on E. Colfax Avenue, and she’ll add an airport version of Maria Empanada in May, according to a DIA. Located in Concourse A, near Gate 24, it will serve several versions of the South American specialty.

Osteria Marco

When it opens, possibly as soon as June, Osteria Marco will be the second airport restaurant operation for Denver chef and restaurateur Frank Bonanno. The other is Salt & Grinder, which no longer has a storefront in the city — Bonanno recently replaced it with a new concept called Dumplin’ — but lives on at DIA. Osteria Marco is known for fresh pasta and pizza and will be on the upstairs mezzanine on the B Concourse, near the escalator to the trains.

Teatulia Tea & Coffee Bar

Located in the River North Art District, Teatulia sources its organic teas directly from its garden in Bangladesh. At the airport, “Teatulia will feature its signature tea and coffee lattes, iced teas and wellness blends,” the company said. Look for it near Gate 62 in the C Concourse.

Tocabe

Tocabe, one of the only restaurants in Denver specializing in Native American cuisine, opened for business in DIA’s Terminal A on April 7.

Uncle

Uncle helped put Denver ramen on the map, and now that map will extend into DIA’s flight path as Tommy Lee’s restaurant is slated to begin slinging noodle bowls, beginning in May, near Gate A24.

Williams & Graham

Even if you’re not flying first class, you’ll be able to order some first-class cocktails at  Williams & Graham, which is expected to open on April 21, near Gate A38. Bartender Sean Kenyon’s award-winning Denver bar mixes up 60 classic cocktails, some of which will make their way to DIA.

Subscribe to our new food newsletter, Stuffed, to get Denver food and drink news sent straight to your inbox.

One of the more challenging issues for Jews who try to observe the dietary limitations of Passover — primarily no bread or other leavened grains known as “chametz” — is less about what to prepare or eat for the customary Seder meals on the first and second nights, and more about what to eat during the rest of the week.

It’s not exactly a huge sacrifice, but it does shake up our habits and, in a good way, makes us think about the meaning of the holiday. But within a couple of days it can feel constrained — no pasta, no tortillas, no bagels or toast or cereal. Certainly things have loosened up since I was a kid growing up in an Ashkenazi, or Eastern European, tradition. Back then, legumes, beans, peas, rice, corn and seeds were also not allowed. But over the years, that’s mostly dropped away.

Still, it’s helpful once the Seder leftovers are gone to have some holiday-adjacent foods to enjoy, so in March — well before the arrival of Passover on the evening of April 12 — I sought advice from chef Jeff Rossman of Terra Catering and Shalom Kosher Catering. I’ve known Rossman since he originally opened Terra Restaurant in Hillcrest back in the late 90s. Years later, he moved Terra to the College Area, where he would regularly host farm-to-table dinners. He closed it in January to focus on his successful catering business. With his Shalom Kosher Catering arm of the business, this year he’s not only catering Seders for private clients but also Congregation Beth Israel’s Seder.

Rossman offered me a slew of cool recipes to choose from, but a few caught my eye for various reasons. Salmon croquettes were something my mom loved to make for us during hot summer months. Hers were made with canned salmon — and Rossman admitted his mom did the same — and breadcrumbs. They were a great way to encourage my siblings and me to eat fish without it all being too fishy. Instead, think chicken fingers pre-MacDonalds, crispy from pan frying with a dip and everything.

Rossman’s are elevated enough for adults to enjoy, using fresh salmon that you’ll sear, then bake and then mix with fresh herbs and enjoy with a luscious horseradish cream.

Then I saw on his list a recipe for Honey Roasted Garlic Tzimmes. Now tzimmes, which is cooked root vegetables and usually mixed with dried fruit, is certainly a Seder dish, but in other incarnations I haven’t enjoyed it, not being much of a fan of boiled carrots and other boiled root vegetables. I assumed these would also be roasted, but no. It’s the garlic cloves that are roasted, first in olive oil, then with honey. But I was sold. I loved the tenderness of the carrots with the sweetness of both the apricots and the aromatic honeyed garlic. It’s a perfect midweek dish that can go with the salmon croquettes or roasted chicken or as a vegetarian main dish with brown rice and toasted nuts.

The last dish I wanted to share is Rossman’s matzoh toffee, because it’s the easy treat we can make to snack on through the week. Never heard of it? Oh, you’re welcome. It’s matzo, with a glaze of homemade caramel (easy-peasy to make), topped with chocolate chips and then any other add-ins that make you happy — say, toasted pecans, toasted coconut, dried fruit. You can even combine different types of chocolate chips.

But let’s start with how you prepare the croquettes. First, Rossman confirms that you can certainly make this dish with canned salmon. There’s a long tradition of doing this. But how about giving fresh salmon a try?

Because you want the flavors of the accompanying horseradish cream to come together, whip that up first. Really, you’re just blending five ingredients together in a bowl and refrigerating them. Rossman uses mayo and sour cream, but you could also sub in plain Greek yogurt for the sour cream. The quarter-cup of horseradish is just a baseline. If you like a more potent sauce, add more. Same with the garlic.

Once that’s in the fridge, focus on the salmon fillet. Rossman recommends seasoning and searing it first on the stove before putting it in the oven for about 15 minutes. Remember that you’ll be seasoning the mixture, too, so be judicious with the salt and pepper. You could also substitute the salt with lemon salt for a bit more punch. In addition, pay attention to the thickness of your fillet. Some are uniform, but others can taper off toward the tail. In that case, you don’t want to overcook it, so at around 12 minutes, check to see if it’s fully cooked.

While it’s in the oven, do a quick prep of the diced red onions and fresh herbs. Rossman suggests parsley, dill and basil, but other salmon-friendly herbs include tarragon, chives, thyme and a bit of rosemary. Heat a saute pan with canola oil until it’s just smoking. Add the onions and stir, then mix in the herbs and remove from the heat. Basically, you’re waking them up.

Once the salmon and the onion mixture are cooled to room temperature, it’s time to combine all the ingredients and make the croquettes. Flake the salmon into a bowl, then add the onion mixture, lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Stir it together gently and taste to see if you need to adjust the seasonings. Then you’ll stir in beaten eggs and matzo meal. Again, gently combine; don’t overmix. Then give it about five minutes so any moisture is absorbed.

“I was taught this technique in Maryland,” Rossman recalled. “When you form the Maryland crab cakes, it’s similar. You don’t want to mash the salmon. You don’t want to mash the mixture. And you gently form either oblongs or patties. Don’t overwork them.”

When you’re ready, heat a large pan and add canola oil — about a 1/4 inch up the side. Wait to drop your croquettes in until a tiny bit of the mixture sizzles when you drop it in the pan. If you have a thermometer, put it in the oil and aim for 350 degrees. Gently form 2-ounce patties or oblongs and place them in the oil. It may take a couple of batches because you don’t want to overcrowd them — and certainly they shouldn’t touch. Fry them on both sides until they’re an inviting golden brown. The internal temperature should read 155 degrees on the thermometer. Remove the croquettes from the heat and drain on paper towels. Then they’re ready to serve with the horseradish cream for an herbaceous dish that captures the coming of spring.

The tzimmes preparation starts with roasting the garlic. It’s similar to making a confit: Place the peeled cloves in a small roasting pan and cover them with olive oil, then roast in a 350-degree oven for about 30 minutes, until they’re tender. Drain off the oil and reserve it to use for anything from a vinaigrette to a dipping sauce for artichokes or roasting your favorite veggies. Then pour honey over the garlic and continue roasting the cloves another 10 minutes.

While that’s going on, cook the carrots in a pot of water until they’re tender. Then drain off half the liquid and add lemon juice, dried apricots, butter and the honey roasted garlic. Bring the mixture to a boil so the butter can emulsify into a lovely sauce. Season with salt and pepper and it is ready to serve.

Finally, there’s the Matzo Toffee. These pieces are crispy-crunchy, sweet and savory, and a bit gooey. What’s not to love?

Rossman prepared a simple version for us, but feel free to be extravagantly creative with ingredients. Still, there are two directives from Rossman.

“Make sure the foil goes up every side of the sheet pan, because you don’t want the caramel going underneath,” he pointed out. “Then the foil will harden into caramel.

“The other thing is to spray the top of the foil with oil or baking spray where you place the matzo so that it will lift off easily.”

And, obviously, watch the caramel so it doesn’t burn. Place two pieces of matzo side by side on the treated foil, smooth a layer of caramel over the matzo, then sprinkle chocolate chips on top and bake for up to 5 minutes. Spread the melted chips across the matzo for a second layer and add nuts, coconut or whatever you wish, refrigerate and then break into pieces to serve.

Salmon Croquettes With Horseradish Cream

Makes about a dozen 2-ounce croquettes.

INGREDIENTS

1 1/4 pounds raw salmon fillet

1 teaspoon canola oil

4 ounces red onion, chopped

3 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped

1 teaspoon fresh dill, chopped

1 teaspoon fresh basil, chopped

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt and ground pepper

2 large eggs, beaten

1/2 cup matzo meal

Canola oil for frying

For the horseradish cream:

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup sour cream

1/4 cup prepared horseradish

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon garlic, finely minced

DIRECTIONS

1: Make the horseradish cream: Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir together.  Let stand in refrigerator for at least one hour for flavors to blend.

2: Prepare the salmon: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season salmon with salt and pepper or lemon salt. Add oil to oven-proof pan and heat. Add salmon and sear on both sides, then place in oven and bake for about 15 minutes (if you have the thin tail end of the fillet, it will take a couple of minutes less). Check to make sure the fillet is fully cooked, then remove from oven and let cool to room temperature.

3: While the salmon is baking, add oil to a saute pan and heat until smoking. Add onions and stir. Saute until soft. Place in small bowl and mix in herbs.

4: Make the croquettes: Place the salmon in a mixing bowl and flake into pieces. Add onion mixture, lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings. Stir in eggs and matzo meal and combine until just well mixed. Let stand for about 5 minutes to allow moisture to be absorbed.

5: In a large saute pan, add canola oil to about 1/4 inch deep and heat until you start to see little bubbles form when you drop a little bit of mixture in. Lightly form the salmon mixture into 2-ounce balls or patties and put each one into the oil, about an inch apart. (Note: If the mixture is too soft to be shaped, stir in more matzo meal.)

6: Fry the croquettes in the oil until browned on both sides and their internal temperature reaches 155 degrees, then drain on paper towels.

7: To serve, place on serving dish with the bowl of horseradish cream.

Honey Roasted Garlic Tzimmes

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

1/4 cup peeled garlic cloves

1 cup olive oil

3/4 cup honey

8 carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 cup dried apricots, sliced in half

3 tablespoons butter

Salt and ground pepper

DIRECTIONS

1: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a small roasting pan, place garlic cloves and cover with olive oil. Roast garlic for about 30 minutes until tender, and strain oil. Pour honey over garlic and continue roasting for another 10 minutes.

2: Meanwhile, put carrots in a sauce pot and cover with water. On medium-high heat, cook carrots until tender. Drain half the liquid and add lemon juice, dried apricots, butter and honey roasted garlic. Season with salt and pepper.

Matzo Toffee

Yield depends on both the size of and how many pieces of matzo you use, but there should be plenty for a group of at least 4 to 6.

INGREDIENTS

1 cup unsalted butter

1 cup dark brown sugar

1 box unflavored/salted matzo (if you add finishing salt as a topping, just use regular unsalted matzo)

2 cups chocolate chips of whatever type you enjoy

Optional add-ins: toasted, chopped nuts and/or seeds, toasted coconut, dried fruit, finishing salt (like flaky sea salt), crushed potato chips, and even dried rose petals or violets

DIRECTIONS

1: Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

2: Gather all your toppings to make sure you place them on the melted chocolate before it hardens.

3: In a small sauce pot over medium heat, melt butter and sugar together to make caramel. Continue to cook until syrup consistency. Remove from heat.

4: Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with a non-stick spray. Line baking sheet with two whole pieces of matzo and then break pieces to fit and cover the foil completely (make sure the lines on the matzo are all going in the same direction).

5: Pour the caramel over the matzo and then sprinkle the chocolate chips over the top. Place in the oven for 4 to 5 minutes to completely melt the chocolate. Remove from oven and spread the chocolate and caramel evenly with a spatula. Repeat with more matzo if desired.

6: Refrigerate for at least 2 hours to set. Break up into pieces and serve.

Recipes from Jeff Rossman of Terra and Shalom Kosher Catering.