Hot cross buns are an Easter specialty with a light, enriched crumb that’s studded with currants and flavored with a gentle mix of warm spices and a hint of citrus. While some versions are drizzled with icing, we prefer a traditional semi-sweet, flour-based “cross” etched across the top.

This recipe from our book “ Milk Street Bakes ” mostly sticks to tradition but amps up the flavor. We enrich the dough with tangy buttermilk instead of regular milk, along with orange zest and a little Lyle’s Golden Syrup for its bittersweet caramel notes. Lyle’s Golden Syrup is an amber-hued sweetener common to the U.K.; mild clover honey works equally well if you can’t find the iconic green can of syrup.

We plump the currants in bourbon, which enhances the flavors in the spice mix, then use the currant-flavored bourbon to make a shiny glaze.

The work is spread over a couple days so the buns can be baked and served for breakfast or brunch. If you wish to bake the buns the same day, after shaping them, let them rise at room temperature until just shy of doubled, about an hour. Halfway into rising, heat the oven and prepare the egg wash and piping mixture. Once doubled, brush the buns with egg wash and pipe on the crosses, then bake and glaze as directed. Store extra buns in an airtight container up to three days; rewarm wrapped in foil in a 300°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes.

Don’t heat the buttermilk to bring it to room temperature. Buttermilk curdles easily; it’s best to let it stand at room temperature. And don’t forget to pat the currants dry after draining their soaking liquid. Additional moisture can make the rather sticky dough difficult to handle when shaping.

Hot Cross Buns

Start to finish: 13 hours (1¼ hours active), plus cooling

Makes 12 buns

Ingredients:

For the dough:

93 grams (⅔ cup) dried currants

⅓ cup bourbon

1 cup buttermilk, room temperature

1 large egg, plus 1 large egg yolk

3 tablespoons Lyle’s Golden Syrup (see headnote) or honey

1 tablespoon grated orange zest

411 grams (3 cups) bread flour, plus more for dusting

2¼ teaspoons instant yeast

¾ teaspoon table salt

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

57 grams (4 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into 4 pieces, room temperature

For the egg wash and piping mixture:

1 large egg

34 grams (¼ cup) bread flour

For the glaze:

Bourbon, as needed

2 tablespoons Lyle’s Golden Syrup or honey

Instructions:

To make the dough, in a small microwave-safe bowl, stir the currants and bourbon. Microwave, uncovered, on high until warm, about 30 seconds, stirring once. Stir again, then set aside until plump, about 15 minutes. Drain in a fine-mesh strainer set over a small bowl; reserve the liquid. Turn the currants onto a paper towel-lined plate and pat dry; set aside.

In a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or small bowl, whisk the buttermilk, whole egg, egg yolk, golden syrup and orange zest. In a stand mixer with the dough hook, mix the flour, yeast, salt, cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg on low until combined, about 20 seconds. With the mixer running, add the buttermilk mixture; mix until a shaggy dough forms, about 45 seconds. Increase to medium-low and knead until sticky and elastic, 8 to 10 minutes; if the dough climbs up the hook, occasionally push it off.

With the mixer running on medium-low, add the butter 1 piece at a time, mixing until almost fully incorporated, about 30 seconds; scrape the bowl as needed. Knead on medium-low until shiny and once again elastic, 3 to 5 minutes. Scrape the dough off the hook. With the mixer running on medium-low, add the currants in 2 batches. Knead until distributed throughout the dough, 1 to 2 minutes. Detach the bowl from the mixer and use a silicone spatula to scrape the bowl and gather the dough at the center. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled, 1 to 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, mist a 9-by-13-inch baking pan or baking dish with cooking spray. Line the pan with a 12-by-16-inch piece of parchment positioned so the excess overhangs the pan’s long sides. Mist the parchment with cooking spray; set aside.

When the dough has doubled, lightly flour the counter and turn the dough out onto it. Divide into 12 portions, each about 77 grams (2½ ounces). Form each into a taut ball by rolling it against the counter in a circular motion under a cupped hand. Place seam-side down in the prepared pan, arranging them in 3 rows of 4. Mist a sheet of plastic wrap with cooking spray and drape over the pan, then cover loosely with a kitchen towel. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.

About 2 hours before you are ready to bake, remove the buns from the refrigerator. Let stand at room temperature, covered, until almost doubled, 1½ to 2 hours.

About 1 hour into rising, in a small bowl, beat the egg for the wash until well combined; set aside. In another small bowl, combine the flour and 2½ tablespoons water; whisk until smooth. The mixture should form a thick paste that falls slowly from the whisk and mounds on itself in the bowl; if too thick, whisk in more water a few drops at a time. Transfer to a quart-size, zip-close bag. Press out the air and push the mixture to one corner; twist the bag to keep the batter contained in the corner; set aside. Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position.

When the buns have doubled, brush them with egg wash (you will not need to use all of the egg). With the piping mixture still pushed to the corner of the bag, use scissors to snip off ⅛ to ¼ inch from the tip of the bag. Pipe a continuous line across the center of each row of buns, then pipe a continuous line down the center of each column of buns, creating a cross on the center of each bun. Bake until the buns are deep golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the glaze. Measure the bourbon reserved from soaking the currants, then supplement with additional bourbon to total 3 tablespoons. In a small saucepan, combine the bourbon and syrup. Simmer over medium, stirring, until lightly syrupy and reduced to about 3 tablespoons, about 2 minutes; set aside off heat.

When the buns are done, set the pan on a wire rack and immediately brush with the glaze. Cool for 10 minutes. Using the parchment sling, lift the buns from the pan and set directly on the rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

These cheese latkes were the most common type in Ashkenazi communities until the 19th century, when the potato was introduced in Eastern Europe. At that time, the most inexpensive and readily available cooking fat was schmaltz. As potatoes gained popularity in Eastern Europe, they were quickly embraced, and today, latkes are almost synonymous with potatoes.

Yield: Makes 2 dozen.

INGREDIENTS

2 large Russet potatoes (scrubbed and cut lengthwise into quarters)

1 large onion (peeled and cut into quarters)

2 large eggs

½ cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil (for frying)

Sour cream (as a condiment at the table)

DIRECTIONS

1. Grate the potatoes and onion. Transfer the mixture to a clean dishtowel and wring out as much liquid as possible. Transfer the potatoes and onions to a large bowl. Add the eggs, flour, salt, baking powder, and pepper. Mix until the flour is absorbed.

2. Pour about ¼-inch of oil into a large skillet and heat over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, drop a heaping tablespoon of the batter into the skillet for each latke (cook in batches.) Use a spatula to flatten and shape the drops into discs. Cook for about five minutes, then carefully flip the latkes over. Cook the second side for five minutes. Transfer the latkes to paper towels to absorb excess oil. Sprinkle with coarse salt while still warm, and cover with more paper towels to keep the latkes warm.

3. Repeat the cooking process until all the batter is used. Serve with sour cream at the table.

Tip: Latkes can be made with additional ingredients such as cheese, onion, carrot, and zucchini.

Randy Graham is a private chef and author whose cookbooks include “The Ojai Valley Cookbook,” “The Ojai Valley Vegetarian” and the “The Ojai Valley Vegan.” He has been a vegetarian since 1975 and enjoys cooking for friends and family using ingredients from backyard vegetable and herb gardens.

One of the more challenging issues for Jews who try to observe the dietary limitations of Passover — primarily no bread or other leavened grains known as “chametz” — is less about what to prepare or eat for the customary Seder meals on the first and second nights, and more about what to eat during the rest of the week.

It’s not exactly a huge sacrifice, but it does shake up our habits and, in a good way, makes us think about the meaning of the holiday. But within a couple of days it can feel constrained — no pasta, no tortillas, no bagels or toast or cereal. Certainly things have loosened up since I was a kid growing up in an Ashkenazi, or Eastern European, tradition. Back then, legumes, beans, peas, rice, corn and seeds were also not allowed. But over the years, that’s mostly dropped away.

Still, it’s helpful once the Seder leftovers are gone to have some holiday-adjacent foods to enjoy, so in March — well before the arrival of Passover on the evening of April 12 — I sought advice from chef Jeff Rossman of Terra Catering and Shalom Kosher Catering. I’ve known Rossman since he originally opened Terra Restaurant in Hillcrest back in the late 90s. Years later, he moved Terra to the College Area, where he would regularly host farm-to-table dinners. He closed it in January to focus on his successful catering business. With his Shalom Kosher Catering arm of the business, this year he’s not only catering Seders for private clients but also Congregation Beth Israel’s Seder.

Rossman offered me a slew of cool recipes to choose from, but a few caught my eye for various reasons. Salmon croquettes were something my mom loved to make for us during hot summer months. Hers were made with canned salmon — and Rossman admitted his mom did the same — and breadcrumbs. They were a great way to encourage my siblings and me to eat fish without it all being too fishy. Instead, think chicken fingers pre-MacDonalds, crispy from pan frying with a dip and everything.

Rossman’s are elevated enough for adults to enjoy, using fresh salmon that you’ll sear, then bake and then mix with fresh herbs and enjoy with a luscious horseradish cream.

Then I saw on his list a recipe for Honey Roasted Garlic Tzimmes. Now tzimmes, which is cooked root vegetables and usually mixed with dried fruit, is certainly a Seder dish, but in other incarnations I haven’t enjoyed it, not being much of a fan of boiled carrots and other boiled root vegetables. I assumed these would also be roasted, but no. It’s the garlic cloves that are roasted, first in olive oil, then with honey. But I was sold. I loved the tenderness of the carrots with the sweetness of both the apricots and the aromatic honeyed garlic. It’s a perfect midweek dish that can go with the salmon croquettes or roasted chicken or as a vegetarian main dish with brown rice and toasted nuts.

The last dish I wanted to share is Rossman’s matzoh toffee, because it’s the easy treat we can make to snack on through the week. Never heard of it? Oh, you’re welcome. It’s matzo, with a glaze of homemade caramel (easy-peasy to make), topped with chocolate chips and then any other add-ins that make you happy — say, toasted pecans, toasted coconut, dried fruit. You can even combine different types of chocolate chips.

But let’s start with how you prepare the croquettes. First, Rossman confirms that you can certainly make this dish with canned salmon. There’s a long tradition of doing this. But how about giving fresh salmon a try?

Because you want the flavors of the accompanying horseradish cream to come together, whip that up first. Really, you’re just blending five ingredients together in a bowl and refrigerating them. Rossman uses mayo and sour cream, but you could also sub in plain Greek yogurt for the sour cream. The quarter-cup of horseradish is just a baseline. If you like a more potent sauce, add more. Same with the garlic.

Once that’s in the fridge, focus on the salmon fillet. Rossman recommends seasoning and searing it first on the stove before putting it in the oven for about 15 minutes. Remember that you’ll be seasoning the mixture, too, so be judicious with the salt and pepper. You could also substitute the salt with lemon salt for a bit more punch. In addition, pay attention to the thickness of your fillet. Some are uniform, but others can taper off toward the tail. In that case, you don’t want to overcook it, so at around 12 minutes, check to see if it’s fully cooked.

While it’s in the oven, do a quick prep of the diced red onions and fresh herbs. Rossman suggests parsley, dill and basil, but other salmon-friendly herbs include tarragon, chives, thyme and a bit of rosemary. Heat a saute pan with canola oil until it’s just smoking. Add the onions and stir, then mix in the herbs and remove from the heat. Basically, you’re waking them up.

Once the salmon and the onion mixture are cooled to room temperature, it’s time to combine all the ingredients and make the croquettes. Flake the salmon into a bowl, then add the onion mixture, lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Stir it together gently and taste to see if you need to adjust the seasonings. Then you’ll stir in beaten eggs and matzo meal. Again, gently combine; don’t overmix. Then give it about five minutes so any moisture is absorbed.

“I was taught this technique in Maryland,” Rossman recalled. “When you form the Maryland crab cakes, it’s similar. You don’t want to mash the salmon. You don’t want to mash the mixture. And you gently form either oblongs or patties. Don’t overwork them.”

When you’re ready, heat a large pan and add canola oil — about a 1/4 inch up the side. Wait to drop your croquettes in until a tiny bit of the mixture sizzles when you drop it in the pan. If you have a thermometer, put it in the oil and aim for 350 degrees. Gently form 2-ounce patties or oblongs and place them in the oil. It may take a couple of batches because you don’t want to overcrowd them — and certainly they shouldn’t touch. Fry them on both sides until they’re an inviting golden brown. The internal temperature should read 155 degrees on the thermometer. Remove the croquettes from the heat and drain on paper towels. Then they’re ready to serve with the horseradish cream for an herbaceous dish that captures the coming of spring.

The tzimmes preparation starts with roasting the garlic. It’s similar to making a confit: Place the peeled cloves in a small roasting pan and cover them with olive oil, then roast in a 350-degree oven for about 30 minutes, until they’re tender. Drain off the oil and reserve it to use for anything from a vinaigrette to a dipping sauce for artichokes or roasting your favorite veggies. Then pour honey over the garlic and continue roasting the cloves another 10 minutes.

While that’s going on, cook the carrots in a pot of water until they’re tender. Then drain off half the liquid and add lemon juice, dried apricots, butter and the honey roasted garlic. Bring the mixture to a boil so the butter can emulsify into a lovely sauce. Season with salt and pepper and it is ready to serve.

Finally, there’s the Matzo Toffee. These pieces are crispy-crunchy, sweet and savory, and a bit gooey. What’s not to love?

Rossman prepared a simple version for us, but feel free to be extravagantly creative with ingredients. Still, there are two directives from Rossman.

“Make sure the foil goes up every side of the sheet pan, because you don’t want the caramel going underneath,” he pointed out. “Then the foil will harden into caramel.

“The other thing is to spray the top of the foil with oil or baking spray where you place the matzo so that it will lift off easily.”

And, obviously, watch the caramel so it doesn’t burn. Place two pieces of matzo side by side on the treated foil, smooth a layer of caramel over the matzo, then sprinkle chocolate chips on top and bake for up to 5 minutes. Spread the melted chips across the matzo for a second layer and add nuts, coconut or whatever you wish, refrigerate and then break into pieces to serve.

Salmon Croquettes With Horseradish Cream

Makes about a dozen 2-ounce croquettes.

INGREDIENTS

1 1/4 pounds raw salmon fillet

1 teaspoon canola oil

4 ounces red onion, chopped

3 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped

1 teaspoon fresh dill, chopped

1 teaspoon fresh basil, chopped

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt and ground pepper

2 large eggs, beaten

1/2 cup matzo meal

Canola oil for frying

For the horseradish cream:

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup sour cream

1/4 cup prepared horseradish

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon garlic, finely minced

DIRECTIONS

1: Make the horseradish cream: Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir together.  Let stand in refrigerator for at least one hour for flavors to blend.

2: Prepare the salmon: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season salmon with salt and pepper or lemon salt. Add oil to oven-proof pan and heat. Add salmon and sear on both sides, then place in oven and bake for about 15 minutes (if you have the thin tail end of the fillet, it will take a couple of minutes less). Check to make sure the fillet is fully cooked, then remove from oven and let cool to room temperature.

3: While the salmon is baking, add oil to a saute pan and heat until smoking. Add onions and stir. Saute until soft. Place in small bowl and mix in herbs.

4: Make the croquettes: Place the salmon in a mixing bowl and flake into pieces. Add onion mixture, lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings. Stir in eggs and matzo meal and combine until just well mixed. Let stand for about 5 minutes to allow moisture to be absorbed.

5: In a large saute pan, add canola oil to about 1/4 inch deep and heat until you start to see little bubbles form when you drop a little bit of mixture in. Lightly form the salmon mixture into 2-ounce balls or patties and put each one into the oil, about an inch apart. (Note: If the mixture is too soft to be shaped, stir in more matzo meal.)

6: Fry the croquettes in the oil until browned on both sides and their internal temperature reaches 155 degrees, then drain on paper towels.

7: To serve, place on serving dish with the bowl of horseradish cream.

Honey Roasted Garlic Tzimmes

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

1/4 cup peeled garlic cloves

1 cup olive oil

3/4 cup honey

8 carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 cup dried apricots, sliced in half

3 tablespoons butter

Salt and ground pepper

DIRECTIONS

1: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a small roasting pan, place garlic cloves and cover with olive oil. Roast garlic for about 30 minutes until tender, and strain oil. Pour honey over garlic and continue roasting for another 10 minutes.

2: Meanwhile, put carrots in a sauce pot and cover with water. On medium-high heat, cook carrots until tender. Drain half the liquid and add lemon juice, dried apricots, butter and honey roasted garlic. Season with salt and pepper.

Matzo Toffee

Yield depends on both the size of and how many pieces of matzo you use, but there should be plenty for a group of at least 4 to 6.

INGREDIENTS

1 cup unsalted butter

1 cup dark brown sugar

1 box unflavored/salted matzo (if you add finishing salt as a topping, just use regular unsalted matzo)

2 cups chocolate chips of whatever type you enjoy

Optional add-ins: toasted, chopped nuts and/or seeds, toasted coconut, dried fruit, finishing salt (like flaky sea salt), crushed potato chips, and even dried rose petals or violets

DIRECTIONS

1: Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

2: Gather all your toppings to make sure you place them on the melted chocolate before it hardens.

3: In a small sauce pot over medium heat, melt butter and sugar together to make caramel. Continue to cook until syrup consistency. Remove from heat.

4: Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with a non-stick spray. Line baking sheet with two whole pieces of matzo and then break pieces to fit and cover the foil completely (make sure the lines on the matzo are all going in the same direction).

5: Pour the caramel over the matzo and then sprinkle the chocolate chips over the top. Place in the oven for 4 to 5 minutes to completely melt the chocolate. Remove from oven and spread the chocolate and caramel evenly with a spatula. Repeat with more matzo if desired.

6: Refrigerate for at least 2 hours to set. Break up into pieces and serve.

Recipes from Jeff Rossman of Terra and Shalom Kosher Catering.

Wheat flour is strictly forbidden during this eight-day holiday, which begins Saturday, April 12. In many households, like those of our families when we were growing up, noodles, rice and other grains are also not allowed. Today, however, there are kosher for Passover alternatives to grains.

Instead of rice, we use quinoa, a grain-like seed that’s permitted during the holiday, or hearts of palm rice, which is derived from a vegetable. Shirataki noodles, made from the flour of konjac, a root vegetable, offer a satisfying alternative to traditional wheat noodles and are very low in carbohydrates and calories.

Some of our favorite Passover desserts are no-cook sweets like our date and chocolate balls. For a light finale to the Passover Seder dinner, we enjoy a refreshing treat such as a hibiscus and chia seed pudding with sour cherry preserves.

Green Salad with Papaya and Pecans

Make this lively salad with sweet cocktail grapefruit when it’s available. The Italian-style dressing is based on a recipe in “Olive Oil for Dummies” by Amy Riolo and Simon Poole.

Yield: 2 or 3 servings

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

4 to 5 cups romaine, torn in bite size pieces

1 1/2 cups papaya cubes

1/2 cup jicama sticks

3 mini cucumbers, diced

Pinch of pico de gallo seasoning (chile salt)

1 cocktail grapefruit or other small grapefruit, divided in segments

1/2 cup pecans, lightly toasted if desired

DIRECTIONS

1. For dressing: Whisk olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper in a small bowl.

2. For salad: Combine romaine with half the dressing. Taste and adjust seasoning.

3. Top romaine with papaya, jicama and cucumber pieces and with rest of dressing. Sprinkle papaya and vegetables with pico de gallo seasoning. Add grapefruit segments and pecans and serve.

Beet, Apple and Walnut Salad with Creamy Tahini Dressing

I dress this salad, which is based on a recipe in “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce” by Cathy Thomas, with lemony tahini and Greek yogurt instead of blue cheese dressing. For the best flavor, make the salad with freshly toasted walnuts.

Yield: 2 or 3 servings

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon lemon juice (divided)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (divided)

1/4 cup Greek yogurt

1 tablespoon tahini (see Note)

1 small shallot, minced

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1/2 crisp unpeeled red-skinned apple, cut in thin wedges

4 cups coarsely chopped romaine

4 cooked baby beets, cut in bite-size cubes

1/2 cup coarsely chopped toasted walnuts (see Tip)

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

DIRECTIONS

1. Dressing: Reserve 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon olive oil for flavoring lettuce.

2. Combine remaining lemon juice, remaining olive oil, yogurt, tahini, and shallot in a small bowl. Whisk until well blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Set aside 7 or 8 apple wedges for garnish. Dice remaining apple.

4. In a medium bowl toss romaine with reserved lemon juice and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

5. In another bowl combine beets, diced apple, half of walnuts and half of parsley. Stir in tahini dressing. Taste and adjust seasoning. Spoon mixture on top of romaine. Garnish edges of mixture with apple slices. Top beet mixture with remaining walnuts and parsley.

Tip: Toast walnuts on a baking sheet at 300 degrees for 5 minutes or until very lightly browned. Remove to a plate.

Note: If your family avoids sesame on Passover, omit the tahini.

Exotic Mushrooms Bourguignon with Garlic Whipped Potatoes

Use any selection of mushrooms you like in this dish. It is based on a recipe in “The Vegan Blueprints” by Chef Eileen Elizabeth.

Yield: 2 to 4 servings

12 ounces exotic mushrooms such as shiitake, chanterelles, lion’s mane or oyster mushrooms, cut in bite-size pieces

3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or avocado oil (divided)

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

4 medium-size yellow potatoes, such as Yukon Gold

3 medium or large carrots, peeled and diced

1 onion, diced

5 garlic cloves, minced (divided)

8 ounces thin-skinned small tomatoes, chopped

2 cups vegetable broth

2 tablespoons dry red wine (optional)

1/4 cup water

1 tablespoon potato starch

1 teaspoon dried thyme, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, or to taste

3 to 4 tablespoons plant-based milk (optional)

Chopped chives or Italian parsley (optional garnish)

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Toss mushrooms with 1 tablespoon oil and salt and pepper to taste. Roast on a baking sheet for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until browned.

2. Meanwhile, cover potatoes with water in a medium-large saucepan. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 25 minutes or until very tender. Remove from water, rinse briefly and let cool enough to handle.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add carrots, onion and 4 minced garlic cloves. Saute for 7 minutes or until onion pieces are translucent. Stir in tomatoes. Cook for 10 minutes until sauce thickens. Stir in broth and wine and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer 10 minutes.

4. Stir water into potato starch in a small bowl. Whisk to blend well. Slowly whisk this slurry into the sauce. Add thyme and oregano.

5. Add roasted mushrooms to sauce. Cover and simmer 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, over low heat until mushrooms are very tender and sauce is well flavored. Adjust seasoning.

6. Peel potatoes. Mash with a potato masher, adding remaining minced garlic clove, 1 to 2 tablespoons oil, and milk to adjust consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

7. Serve mushrooms in their sauce on or alongside mashed potatoes. Sprinkle mushrooms with chives.

Cauliflower-Broccoli Tajine with Hearts of Palm Rice

Bold flavors popular in Morocco — ginger, garlic, saffron, cumin and other spices, as well as lemon pieces — simmer with the broccoli, cauliflower and sweet potato. The recipe is adapted from “The Heart Healthy Plant-Based Cookbook” by Dr. Jenneffer Pulapaka and Chef Hari Pulapaka.

Yield: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

3 cups cauliflower florets

3 cups broccoli florets

1 medium onion, sliced

1 sweet potato (about 1/2 pound), peeled and cut in large dice

2 lemons, quartered, seeds removed

1 tablespoon minced ginger root

4 garlic cloves, peeled, sliced into slivers

1 tablespoon ground cumin, or to taste

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 bay leaves

Pinch of saffron threads, soaked in 2 tablespoons warm water for 20 minutes

2 cups vegetable stock, more if needed

9-ounce package hearts of palm rice

1/2 cup chopped parsley, cilantro or a mixture of both

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Roast cauliflower and broccoli florets on a baking sheet in the oven for 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

2. Add onion and sweet potato to baking sheet. Roast for 10 minutes until they soften slightly. Transfer them to a stew pan.

3. Add lemon quarters to stew pan along with ginger, garlic, cumin, coriander and cinnamon. Stir over low heat for 1 minute.

4. Add roasted cauliflower and broccoli to pan. Add bay leaves, saffron and its liquid, and enough vegetable stock to barely cover sweet potato cubes. Bring to a simmer. Cover and cook over low heat 15 to 18 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Taste and adjust seasoning. Let stand for 15 minutes. Remove bay leaves.

5. To serve, prepare hearts of palm rice. Serve vegetables over it. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and cilantro.

Shirataki Spaghetti with Shiitake Mushrooms and Asparagus

Shirataki spaghetti — Japanese noodles made from root of the konnyaku or konjac plant — can be used on Passover because they are made without grains. We flavor the noodles with Asian seasonings — sesame oil, hoisin sauce, soy sauce and white pepper. You can find kosher for Passover soy-style sauce and hoisin sauce at kosher markets.

Yield: 2 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 bunch asparagus (about 3/4 pound)

1/2 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, quartered, tender stems trimmed and halved lengthwise

3 to 4 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil, or to taste

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 eight-ounce packages shirataki spaghetti

2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil or avocado oil

2 teaspoons soy sauce, or to taste

1 teaspoon hoisin sauce, or to taste (optional)

White pepper to taste

Green of green onion, chopped (optional garnish)

DIRECTIONS

1. Cut upper two thirds of each asparagus spear in 2 or 3 pieces. (Discard tough bases or use in vegetable stock.)

2. Put asparagus pieces in a roasting pan. Drizzle with 1 or 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. Roast for 4 to 6 minutes. Stir and roast for 4 to 6 more minutes or until just tender. Remove from roasting pan.

3. Add shiitake mushroom pieces to pan. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon olive oil, then with salt and pepper. Roast for 5 minutes. Stir, drizzle with another 1 teaspoon olive oil and roast for 5 more minutes or until tender and lightly browned.

4. Prepare shirataki spaghetti according to package directions. Drain well. Add sesame oil, soy sauce, hoisin sauce and white pepper.

5. Transfer spaghetti to a platter. Top with mushrooms and asparagus. Garnish with green onion.

Chocolate Date Balls

Vary the nuts and dried fruit to your taste when making these fun treats; but bear in mind that, in addition to adding pleasing sweetness, the dates help hold the ingredients together. The recipe is from “The Vegan Blueprints” by Chef Eileen Elizabeth.

Yield: 12 date balls

INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup Medjool dates, pitted

1/2 cup chocolate chips

1/2 cup almonds

1/4 cup pistachios

1/2 cup dried cranberries

1/4 cup pine nuts

1/4 cup almond butter

DIRECTIONS

1. Cut dates in small pieces. Chop in a food processor. Add chocolate chips and process together. Let stand for 3 or 4 minutes so the chocolate softens and begins to blend into the dates.

2. Add almonds and process until chopped fine. Add pistachios, followed by dried cranberries and pine nuts. Chop until all ingredients are in small pieces.

3. Transfer mixture to a bowl. Mix ingredients by hand. Add almond butter and mix well.

4. Roll mixture in golf-ball size or smaller balls, using about 1 tablespoon for each one. Refrigerate them for 30 minutes so chocolate will harden. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Hibiscus Chia Seed Pudding with Cherry Preserves

This bright-red pudding spiced with ginger root and turmeric root makes a light, healthy dessert or breakfast treat that’s easy to prepare and needs no cooking. Make hibiscus tea from a tea bag or from soaked dried hibiscus flowers.

Yield: 2 servings

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons chia seeds

3/4 cup hibiscus herbal tea, cool

1 teaspoon finely grated ginger root

1/2 teaspoon finely grated turmeric root

2 tablespoons Greek yogurt or dried coconut

4 teaspoons sour cherry preserves or jam

DIRECTIONS

1. Spoon chia seeds into a small bowl. Pour tea over them and whisk to blend. Add ginger and turmeric. Refrigerate for 2 hours or until pudding thickens, whisking from time to time.

2. To serve, divide pudding between two small serving bowls. Top each serving with yogurt or coconut, then with sour cherry preserves.

Faye Levy is the author of 1,000 Jewish Recipes.

I don’t pay attention to all the viral food trends on TikTok and Instagram. There are so many crazy recipes screaming for attention, and so many of them just seem dumb. But every once in a while something looks just so incredibly awesome that I have to try it.

That includes the Dubai chocolate trend, which became something of a cultural phenomenon in early 2024 after a TikTok influencer posted a video of her sampling the decadent chocolate bar stuffed with pistachio cream and toasted kataifi, a crispy, shredded phyllo dough used in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern desserts and dishes.

Demand surged for the creamy candy made by FIX Dessert Chocolatier in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, leading not just to shortages of the salty-sweet chocolate treat but countless imitations, many of which were made with inferior ingredients.

Quality Dubai chocolate can still be hard to find today. That’s why when The New York Times published a recipe for the candy bar a few months ago, I decided to try my hand at it — even though candy-making is not exactly in my wheel house.

I was surprised — no, make that delighted — to discover that it’s actually pretty easy to make a pretty good Dubai chocolate bar at home. The hardest step was shelling all the pistachios the recipe requires (almost 3 cups). That, and waiting 35-40 minutes until the bars have been properly chilled and can be unmolded for sampling.

To make this recipe, you’ll need at least one 6-by-3-by-1-inch silicone chocolate mold. It’s better to have four, if you don’t want to work in batches. You can find any number of reusable Dubai chocolate bar molds on Amazon; I used one made by UWillion.

A silicone pastry brush also comes in handy to coat the molds with melted chocolate, but you can also use the back of a spoon.

Finally, you’ll need to set aside a fairly large chunk of time, since the chocolate has to set both before and after it’s been filled with the pistachio cream/kataifi mixture.

The only downside to the recipe is its expense: Even using Ghirardelli milk chocolate-flavored melting wafers, which are easier to melt and less expensive than chopped milk chocolate, the ingredient list quickly added up to more than $25.

To help prevent cracking when cutting the bar into squares, allow the chocolate to cool to room temperature before refrigerating. Also, use a very sharp knife that’s been warmed in hot water (and dried) to cut it.

Homemade Dubai Chocolate

Makes 4 chocolate bars, PG tested

Kataifi, a shredded variety of phyllo, is available in the refrigerated or freezer section of Middle Eastern grocery stores. If frozen, thaw it overnight in the refrigerator before use.

INGREDIENTS

2 3/4 cups roasted salted shelled pistachios

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

1 tablespoon tahini, stirred well if separated

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 cups lightly packed, roughly chopped kataifi, thawed overnight in the refrigerator if frozen (about half of a 1-pound package)

18 ounces chopped milk or semisweet chocolate, or 3 heaping cups chocolate chips

DIRECTIONS

1. Make the pistachio cream: In a food processor, combine pistachios, sugar, olive oil, vanilla and salt.
2. Process until it becomes a creamy nut butter, stopping to scrape down the sides of the food processor with a spatula to ensure a uniform mixture. It will progress from chopped nuts to a thick nut paste, then finally transform into a silky, slightly thin nut butter. This takes about 6 minutes.
3. Add tahini and process until fully incorporated, about 30 seconds more. Keep the mixture at room temperature while you make the rest of the filling.
4. Toast the kataifi: In a large, high-sided skillet or large pot over medium heat, melt the butter. When it starts to bubble, add chopped kataifi and cook, stirring frequently and breaking up any unbrowned clumps, until it is evenly crisp and golden brown, about 15 minutes.
5. Transfer to a large plate and let cool completely, about 10 minutes. Once cooled, combine the toasted kataifi with the pistachio cream in a large bowl, mixing with a spatula until fully combined. Keep it at room temperature while you work with the chocolate.
6. Melt the chocolate: Set a medium heatproof bowl over a pot of simmering water. Add half the chocolate to the bowl and heat, stirring occasionally, until melted. (Or melt chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl in 15-second increments and stirring well between intervals, until smooth.)
7. Once the chocolate in the bowl is fully melted, transfer the bowl to a work surface. (Keep the pot of hot water covered in case it’s needed later.) Working with a small handful at a time, begin adding the unmelted chocolate, stirring constantly until each addition is fully melted before adding more.
8. Assemble the chocolate bars: Place four 6-by-3-by-1-inch silicone chocolate bar molds on a sheet pan so it’s easy to transfer them in and out of the fridge.
9. Working with one mold at a time, place 1/4 cup melted chocolate in a mold; using a pastry brush or the back of a small spoon, paint the inside of each mold with the chocolate, completely covering the bottom and sides. Transfer the molds to the fridge until the chocolate is hard, at least 30 minutes.
10. Once the chocolate is fully set, remove the molds from the fridge. Divide the filling evenly among the molds (about 3/4 cup loosely packed filling per mold).
11. Smooth the filling with a spatula to fill the molds almost to the top in an even layer, and transfer to the fridge until the kataifi mixture has firmed up slightly, about 10 minutes.
12. Give the remaining melted chocolate a stir (if it’s become too thick to stir, set the bowl over the pot of water over low heat, stirring until it’s easily spreadable, or microwave in 5-second intervals, stirring in between intervals).
13. Pour the remaining chocolate on top of the bars, dividing evenly. Using an offset spatula or the flat side of a knife, spread the chocolate out to cover the entire surface of the filling in a smooth, even layer. Scrape any excess chocolate off the tops of the molds with the spatula or knife. This will ensure clean edges on the bars when you unmold them.
14. Return the chocolate bars to the fridge and chill until hard, 30-45 minutes. To unmold, gently pull the silicone away from each bar and pop them out. Enjoy right away, or wrap the bars individually to keep in the fridge for up to 3 weeks. Enjoy them chilled or let them come to room temperature before snapping into one.

— nyt.com

©2025 PG Publishing Co. Visit at post-gazette.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

Roasted chicken is a Passover mainstay. It’s easy to prepare while keeping kosher and takes well to a variety of seasonings and sauces, like bold and savory chutney. Though the selection available at most grocery stores suggests otherwise, not all chutneys contain mango. Nor are they all sweet. In fact, many contain no fruit at all.

In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we season the bird with a blend of Indian spices, then serve it with a savory green chutney made with a simple puree of arugula, cilantro, garlic and serrano chilies, along with fresh lime wedges. The richly browned skin is balanced by the lighter flavors of the lime and herbs in the chutney, with just a bit of heat.

For the holiday meal, use a large bird (5½ to 6 pounds) so the dish serves six or yields ample leftovers. If you prefer a smaller bird, use a 4-pound chicken and season it with only half of the spice rub (the remainder can be reserved for another use); reduce the roasting time to 60 to 70 minutes.

Don’t tent the chicken with foil as it rests or the trapped steam will cause the skin to turn soggy. Also, be sure to allow the chicken to rest for about 30 minutes before carving. If cut too soon, the juices will flow out rather than remain in the meat and keep it moist.

Spice-Rubbed Roasted Chicken with Green-Herb Chutney

Start to finish: 2 hours

Servings: 6

Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons ground coriander, divided
• 2 tablespoons ground cumin, divided
• 1 tablespoon sweet paprika
• 1 tablespoon garam masala
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper
• 5½- to 6-pound whole chicken, patted dry
• 4 cups lightly packed baby arugula (3 ounces)
• 1 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro
• 1 medium garlic clove, smashed and peeled
• 2 serrano chilies, stemmed and halved
• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon lime juice, plus lime wedges to serve

Directions:

Heat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the lower-middle position. Place a V-rack inside a large roasting pan. In a small bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons of coriander, 1 tablespoon of cumin, the paprika, garam masala, cayenne and 1 teaspoon salt. Working over a large plate, rub all of the spice mixture evenly over the chicken, using all of the rub and any that has fallen onto the plate, then tie the legs together with kitchen twine. Transfer the chicken breast side up to the rack in the roasting pan. Roast until well browned, the thickest part of the breast reaches 160°F and the thickest part of the thigh reaches 175°F, 70 to 80 minutes.

While the chicken cooks, in a food processor, combine the arugula, cilantro, garlic, serranos, the remaining 1 tablespoon coriander, the remaining 1 tablespoon cumin and ½ teaspoon salt. Process until coarsely chopped, about 30 seconds. With the machine running, pour the oil through the feed tube, then process until finely chopped, another 30 seconds. Transfer to a small bowl, then stir in the lime juice. Cover and refrigerate.

When the chicken is done, transfer it to a cutting board and let rest for 30 minutes. Remove the rack from the roasting pan. While the chicken rests, add ½ cup water to the roasting pan and stir, scraping up any browned bits. Pour the liquid into a medium bowl, then let settle for 5 minutes. Skim off and discard any fat from the surface. Stir 3 tablespoons of the defatted liquid into the arugula-cilantro mixture, then taste and season with salt and pepper; discard the remaining liquid.

Carve the chicken and arrange on a platter. Drizzle with about 3 tablespoons of the chutney, then serve with lime wedges and the remaining chutney on the side.

EDITOR’S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap

April Fools’ Day is a holiday that could really use a signature dish. Chef and author Rozanne Gold once wrote an article arguing for “culinary pranksterism” for April Fools’; she’d long collected surprising but wonderful recipes, like a chicken roasted inside a watermelon and cake baked in a shoe box (women’s size 9, 24 servings). A more literal but still delicious option: the fool, a heavenly English dessert that consists of mashed fruit and lightly sweetened whipped cream.

Not a prank, and not a drill: garlicky Alfredo beans, featured below, can turn a can or two of white beans into a really good dinner.

1. Garlicky Alfredo Beans

This five-ingredient recipe transforms canned beans into a no-fuss, comforting meal that’s easy to whip together at the end of a long day. The beans are doused in a creamy, garlic-infused sauce that’s inspired by Alfredo, and topped with crunchy garlic chips. Choosing the right beans for this recipe might feel intimidating, but the most important thing to remember is texture. Beans that hold their shape and won’t immediately disappear in the sauce are ideal: butter (or lima), Great Northern or chickpeas will make great contenders for this recipe. When pan-frying the sliced garlic into chips, you’ll want to mix attentively for the best results, since the delicate garlic chips can burn very easily. Crunchy and flavorful, they’re worth the effort.

By Carolina Gelen

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, plus 1 garlic clove, finely grated
• Kosher salt
• 2 (15-ounce) cans white beans, rinsed
• 3/4 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup/2 ounces finely grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

Preparation

1. Line a small plate with a paper towel.

2. In a medium pot over medium heat, combine the butter and sliced garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 2 minutes. Once the butter starts to foam, start lifting the garlic to check its color and continue cooking and stirring until it starts to turn golden, another minute. (The garlic can burn very easily — and can continue to darken and cook after it’s been removed from the heat — so make sure to keep an eye on the pot and remove the garlic before it reaches a dark golden color.)

3. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic chips to the paper towel-lined plate and season with salt.

4. Add the beans, heavy cream, Parmesan and a hefty pinch of salt to the pot; stir to combine.

5. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook, stirring gently but frequently, for about 5 minutes, until the sauce has thickened.

6. Stir in the grated garlic and continue simmering for 2 minutes, until fragrant.

7. Divide among bowls. Top with additional Parmesan and the garlic chips.

2. Chicken Jalfrezi

Originally created as a way to add flavor to roasted meats, chicken jalfrezi is a tangy, spicy stir-fried curry with origins in Bengal. “Jalfrezi” translates to “hot fry,” and the dish typically features meat coated in a thick tomato-based gravy — a defining characteristic of the Anglo-Indian version that became popular through British curry houses in the mid-20th century. This recipe uses both Kashmiri chile powder and fresh serrano chiles to deliver its signature spicy kick.

By Zaynab Issa

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 red or yellow bell peppers (or a combination), cut into 1-inch chunks
• 2 large yellow onions, 1 onion cut into 1-inch chunks and 1 onion finely diced
• Kosher salt, preferably Diamond Crystal
• 6 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 1 (2-inch) piece ginger, peeled and finely grated
• 1 serrano chile, thinly sliced, plus more if desired for serving
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon garam masala
• 1 teaspoon Kashmiri chile powder (see tip)
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 (14-ounce) can crushed tomatoes (see tip)
• 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch pieces
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 to 2 teaspoons rice vinegar or white vinegar
• Basmati rice or naan (homemade or storebought), for serving

Preparation

1. Heat a large high-sided skillet over high. Add 1 tablespoon oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the bell pepper and onion chunks. Cook, stirring once halfway through the cook, until crisp-tender and charred in spots, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

2. Reduce heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, the finely diced onion, and 2 teaspoons salt. Cook, stirring often and scraping up any browned bits, until onion is softened and beginning to brown, 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Add garlic, ginger, serrano, cumin, coriander, garam masala, chile powder and turmeric and stir constantly to toast the spices until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add crushed tomatoes and 1 teaspoon of salt and stir to combine. Cook until deepened in color and beginning to stick to the bottom of the pan, 6 to 8 minutes.

4. Add chicken and 1 cup water and stir to combine. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken has cooked through and the gravy has thickened, about 12 minutes.

5. Stir in reserved bell pepper and onion chunks, sugar and vinegar to taste. Cook until warmed through, about 1 minute. Serve with basmati rice or naan, topped with more serrano chile if desired.

Tips

To substitute Kashmiri chile powder, use 1/2 teaspoon paprika and 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne, depending on your heat tolerance.

To substitute crushed tomatoes, use 1 pound of diced plum tomatoes (5 or 6 medium) and 2 tablespoons tomato paste, adding the tomato paste with the spices.

3. Salmon With Anchovy-Garlic Butter

Minced anchovies and garlic add a complex salinity to seared salmon, enriching and deepening its flavor. To get the most out of them, the anchovies and garlic are mashed into softened butter, which is used in two ways: as a cooking medium and as a sauce. Used to cook the salmon, the butter browns and the anchovies and garlic caramelize, turning sweet. When stirred into the pan sauce, the raw garlic and anchovies give an intense bite that’s mitigated by the creaminess of the butter. It’s a quickly made, weeknight-friendly dish that’s far more nuanced than the usual seared salmon — but no harder to prepare.

By Melissa Clark

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
• 4 anchovy fillets, minced
• 1 fat garlic clove, minced (or 2 small ones)
• 1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 4 (6- to 8-ounce) skin-on salmon fillets
• 2 tablespoons drained capers, patted dry
• 1/2 lemon
• Fresh chopped parsley, for serving

Preparation

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. In a small bowl, mash together butter, anchovies, garlic, salt and pepper.

2. In a large ovenproof skillet, melt about half the anchovy butter. Add fish, skin side down. Cook for 3 minutes over high heat to brown the skin, spooning some pan drippings over the top of the fish as it cooks. Add capers to bottom of pan and transfer to oven. Roast until fish is just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Remove pan from oven and add remaining anchovy butter to pan to melt. Place salmon on plates and spoon buttery pan sauce over the top. Squeeze the lemon half over the salmon and garnish with chopped parsley. Serve.

4. Sheet-Pan Sausages, Sweet Potatoes and Balsamic Kale

This cozy sheet-pan dinner has flavors we love to love all year long. As sausage, sweet potatoes and whole sage leaves roast together, the sage seasons the sweet potatoes and crisps as if you fried them. Meanwhile, kale leaves soften in a combination of balsamic vinegar, dried cranberries (or cherries), honey and shallot. When the sausages and sweet potatoes are browned, transfer them to plates, then use the pan drippings and residual heat on the sheet pan to turn the kale silky and tangy.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

• 1 pound hot or sweet Italian sausages
• 2 medium sweet potatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds), cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1/4 cup sage leaves
• 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt and black pepper
• 1/4 cup dried cranberries or cherries
• 1 shallot, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons honey
• 1 bunch kale

Preparation

1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Score the sausages in a few places. Toss the sausages, sweet potatoes and sage on a sheet pan with 3 tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper until well coated. Spread in an even layer and roast until golden brown and cooked through, 25 to 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, stir together the cranberries, shallot, vinegar, honey and remaining tablespoon oil. Strip the kale leaves of their stems, then rip the leaves into bite-size pieces and add to the bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss until coated and slightly wilted.

3. Transfer the cooked sausages and sweet potatoes to plates. Add the kale and balsamic mixture to the sheet pan and toss until the kale is warm. Serve with the sausages and sweet potatoes.

5. Extra-Green Pasta Salad

This vibrant green pasta salad gets its color from a combination of spinach and basil, but you can swap the spinach for arugula for a more peppery finish. (Some of us need a little bite in our lives!). The miso in the sauce does a lot of the heavy lifting, imparting a salty, almost Parmesan-like quality. You can eat the salad immediately or chilled for a summer picnic. If making it a day ahead, don’t add the basil garnish and cheese until you’re ready to serve.

By Andy Baraghani

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients

• Salt and pepper
• 1 pound short-cut pasta (such as rigatoni, campanelle or fusilli)
• 3 cups/8 ounces sugar snap peas
• 1 cup frozen English peas
• 3 packed cups/3 1/2 ounces baby spinach
• 2 packed cups/1 1/2 ounces basil leaves, plus more for serving
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons white miso
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• Zest and juice from 1 lemon
• 4 ounces Parmesan (or other firm salty cheese, such as feta or aged Gouda), thinly sliced

Preparation

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then throw in a handful of salt. Add the pasta, give it a stir and cook until al dente. Just before draining, add the snap peas and English peas to the boiling water to barely soften, 20 to 30 seconds. Drain the pasta and peas, and rinse lightly with cold water; set aside.

2. While the pasta water comes to a boil, place the spinach, basil, oil, miso, garlic, and lemon zest and juice in a blender. Blend to a bright green purée. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and a few grinds of pepper, then blend again.

3. Transfer the purée to a large bowl that is big enough to toss all the pasta. Add the pasta and peas, and toss until coated. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the Parmesan and more basil leaves. Toss once more before serving.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

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I ate a lot of things that surprised me when I lived in Hong Kong in my mid 20s, often from carts hidden from street view in back alleys or larger street-side stalls known as dai pai dong. And I have to say, save for one unfortunate dinner that included fresh sea urchin, I never regretted these impromptu meals.

Street snacks made by “hawkers,” i.e. licensed street vendors, in Hong Kong are often amazing noshes. And way back when, they also were cheap enough to fit our budget as a young married couple just starting out in the then crowded British territory. (It was handed back to China in 1997 after 156 years of British rule.)

Jeremy Pang’s “Hong Kong Kitchen” takes me back to those crazy, tasty days in a location that now ranks as the fourth most densely populated country or dependency in the world with more than 7 million residents. It’s 70-plus recipes explore everything from dumplings to bao to noodles and desserts, along with “tips and tricks” from a Hong Kong kitchen.

One recipe that jumped out immediately was for these mouth-watering fried pork chop sandwiches which — in keeping with Hong Kong-style eating — are prepared with the chop bone kept in.

“Hong Kongers love all things pork,” he writes in the headnotes. “Pork offal, porky snacks, roasted pork bao, braised pork, sweet and sour pork … You name it, we can cook it.”

One thing I especially loved about making the sandwiches is that it allowed me to use a big, very sharp cleaver I bought at Oriental Market in Ross for $10. To assure the pork will nestle comfortably inside a bun, you have to cut slits into the edges so it stays flat when you cook it — easy work for this super-versatile, sharp knife. It also came in handy cutting a tomato into super-thin slices.

The dish takes a little bit of planning, as you have to marinate the pork chops for at least an hour before cooking them. But I agree with Pang when he writes “the crisp outer edges and succulent meat of the pork chop are guaranteed to make your mouth water.” I hated that I had to share the bounty with my husband.

The sandwiches can be served in a cheap crusty roll, a soft bap or a homemade bun — whatever you desire. I used a split-top hoagie roll from BreadWorks.

Pork Chop Crusty Roll

PG tested

For pork

• 2 pork chops, on the bone (7 to 9 ounces each)
• 2 crusty rolls, your choice
• Vegetable oil, for frying
• 1 large, rip tomato
• 4 lettuce leaves, preferably baby gem or iceberg
• Japanese mayonnaise

For marinade

• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
• 1 clove garlic
• Pinch of five-spice seasoning
• 1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine
• 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons cornstarch

Keeping most of the meat on the bone, slice into the edges of each pork chop 3 or 4 times, creating slits all the way through that will help keep the meat flat when cooked.

Then, turn your knife or cleaver upside down and, using the blunt end, back the meat as many times as possible to flatten it out, making tracks along the pork. (This will tenderize the meat and allow the marinade to soak in, as well.)

Once flattened, mix the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Add chops and massage until they are completely coated.

Leave in the fridge overnight and for a minimum of 1 hour to marinate. (I marinated my chops for about 90 minutes.)

Slice the crust rolls in half to make ready for the fried pork chops.

Cut the tomato into thin slices, and make sure your lettuce is washed and patted dry to it maintains its crunch.

Half-fill a wok or deep-fryer with vegetable oil and heat to 350 degrees.

Deep-fry the chops for 5 minutes, turning once, until golden brown, then place on a few sheets of paper towel to drain off any excess oil.

You can also shallow-fry the chops in a large frying pan for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until golden brown all over.

Once the chops are done, put them directly into the crusty rolls, followed by a couple of slices of tomato and some lettuce.

Squeeze a dollop of Japanese mayonnaise over the top, put the crusty top on the roll, and serve.

Serves 2.

— “Jeremy Pang’s Hong Kong Kitchen: Classic Recipes for Baos, Noodles, Street Food and More” (Hamlyn, June 2025, $27)

©2025 PG Publishing Co. Visit at post-gazette.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

Eating lunch is a highlight of the day. Making lunch, though, is complicated.

Along with the decision making, shopping, cooking and cleaning that come with making a meal, work and school lunches must be easy to transport, use few utensils and vessels, and fill you up but not slow you down. Ideally, they don’t take a long time to eat, make a mess or stink up the place.

With all of that to consider, you could just buy lunch or snack until dinner. But making your own lunch can be cheaper, healthier and — with these few principles — easy.

Here’s how to be a better bring-your-lunch person.

Make a Big Batch Ahead

When you have an hour, cook a big batch of a recipe that won’t get dull or soggy after a few days in the refrigerator. Then pack lunches into servings you can grab as you’re running out the door each morning.

If you think boredom may set in toward week’s end, vary the meals slightly when packing them. Use a different mix of vegetables or toppings: olives here, feta there, fennel and citrus in a tinned-fish hand roll, celery and wasabi in another. (And if you’re worried about the smell of tinned fish, you could always swap it out for avocado.)

Or add sparkle with a stash of condiments at the office, like hot sauce, vinegar, hot honey, Tajín, everything bagel seasoning and furikake.

Include an Element You’ll Dream About All Morning

Lunch is your midday treat, so cook it as such. When ordering out is an option, make sure whatever you bring with you is something you’ll really want to eat. What is it about the takeout pulled pork sandwich, spicy noodles or burrito that draws you in? Incorporate those elements into your homemade lunch so that you’ll be so excited to eat it, you’ll crack open your lunch box at 11:15 a.m. Maybe it’s a slab of salty feta, a crunchy pickle, guacamole, a chewy noodle, a nice piece of cut fruit or some salami!

Skip the Office Microwave

All that stands between you and a hot, homemade lunch is a zap in the microwave. But in reality, a free five minutes might be elusive. Even if you can get to the kitchen, are you willing to gamble the success of lunch on the cleanliness of that microwave?

To avoid eating cold food, pretend your work lunch is an indoor picnic and bring something that’s great right from the fridge or at room temperature. (That includes chicken tenders and thinly sliced steak.)

Be Flexible

One strategy for handling lunch is to double or triple dinner, but there is a snag: Dinner might not travel well, and then you’re eating an inferior version of something you ate a mere 16 hours before.

Instead, use lunch to repurpose leftovers and stray produce by making meals with flexible formats, such as bowls with various components, salads and hand rolls.

So What Do I Make?

— Sturdy, already-dressed salads. A separate jar of dressing will spill in your tote, so make an easy chicken salad (find this and other recipes on NYTCooking.com), kimchi bibim guksu, a roasted squash and bacon salad or a quinoa and broccoli spoon salad.

— Bowls with a mix of grains, vegetables, protein and big-flavor flourishes, like sabich bowls, grain bowls with sauce moyo, sweet chili grain bowl with tofu, or millet with corn, mango and shrimp.

— Hand rolls or other rice-and-nori dishes, such as kimbap, salmon onigiri or soy-glazed salmon hand rolls.

— Snack plates with protein-packed dips (include your favorite sandwich’s fillings and avoid soggy bread on a days-old sandwich). A few ideas: an herby cottage cheese dip, an everything bagel smoked salmon dip, a white bean dip with cumin-chile oil or an avocado, edamame and yuzu dip with furikake.

Recipe: Spinach and Feta Lentil Bowls

These satisfying bowls are heaped with silky greens, spicy lentils, jammy eggs and salty feta. The fact that all of the components are cooked in the same pot and can be refrigerated for the week is nice, too. The greens are cooked like horta, a Greek dish of boiled wild greens often finished with olive oil and lemon. Using a mix of spinach and bitter greens, like kale or mustard greens, creates a juicy and bittersweet combination. The lentils, dressed with oregano and crushed red pepper, provide a tender base for the toppings, but grains would work, too. And feel free to embellish further with sliced raw fennel or carrots, toasted nuts or a dollop of cottage cheese.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

Ingredients:

• Salt
• 1 pound bitter greens, such as kale, mustard greens or escarole, tough stems removed, leaves sliced 1 inch thick (2 medium bunches or 1 large bunch, or use prechopped)
• 4 large eggs
• 1 pound mature spinach, stems removed, leaves sliced 1-inch thick (or use baby spinach)
• 1 1/2 cups green or black lentils
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano, plus more for serving
• 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper, plus more for serving
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
• 1 lemon, halved
• 6 to 8 ounces feta

Preparation:

1. Bring a very large pot of salted water to a boil. (The water should taste salty.) Add the bitter greens and eggs and boil for 4 minutes, then add the spinach. Continue to cook until the greens are softened and dark green, 2 more minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the greens and eggs to a fine-mesh sieve to cool and drain; reserve the boiling water.

2. To the boiling water, add the lentils. Reduce heat and simmer until tender but not mushy, 10 to 20 minutes. When the lentils are just about done, transfer the eggs to a cutting board. Squeeze and press the greens to remove excess water, then transfer them to a bowl and set aside.

3. Drain the lentils in the fine-mesh sieve. Rinse the lentils under cold water and shake to dry. Right in the sieve, stir the oregano and crushed red pepper into the lentils; add more salt and crushed red pepper until the lentils are punchy.

4. Add the olive oil to the greens and stir to combine. Squeeze half the lemon over the greens and stir to combine. Season to taste with salt. Quarter the remaining lemon half for serving and slice or crumble the feta. If eating right away, peel the eggs.

5. Divide the lentils, greens, feta, eggs and lemon wedges among 4 bowls or airtight containers. Drizzle with oil, oregano and crushed red pepper. Serve immediately, or refrigerate in airtight containers for up to 4 days.

Recipe: Tinned Fish Hand Rolls

With tinned fish, tender rice and mixed vegetables, these meal-worthy hand rolls are all at once rich, fresh, crunchy and tender. They’re also pantry-friendly and customizable: Crack open a tin of any assertively-flavored fish (save the canned tuna for spicy tuna) and slice any mix of crunchy vegetables. (Pro tip: Baby carrots stay juicier in lunchboxes than regular carrots.) Clementines may be a surprising addition, but sweet citrus and oily fish are a common duo in Persian, Mediterranean and Mexican dishes. Try to use toasted nori sheets if you can; nori snack sheets are more brittle.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 cups sushi rice, rinsed well
• 1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger
• 4 roasted sushi nori sheets, quartered
• 4 tins of fish (about 4 ounces each), such as mackerel or sardines
• Any combination of sliced cucumbers, radishes, baby carrots, clementines and scallions
• Soy sauce or ponzu, for serving

Preparation:

1. In a medium saucepan, bring the rice and 2 cups of water to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low and cook until tender, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit, covered, for 10 minutes. (This is a good time to slice your toppings.)

2. When the rice is ready, drizzle with vinegar and top with ginger. Stir with a spoon to combine. (The rice, as well as the sliced toppings, can be transferred to airtight containers, covered with damp towels and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Bring the rice to room temperature before eating, or warm in the microwave.)

3. To build hand rolls, top nori with some rice, fish and any of the raw toppings. Drizzle with soy sauce or ponzu, wrap and enjoy.

Recipe: Tortellini Pasta Salad

Italian sandwiches don’t hold up well, but pasta salads do, so transform your go-to deli order into a make-ahead pasta salad that’s hearty, punchy and not at all soggy. Instead of regular pasta, this recipe uses cheese-filled tortellini for soft, creamy bites. There’s plenty of salami, too, of course, along with sweet and sharp roasted red peppers, balsamic vinegar, red onion and arugula. But it’s adaptable depending on your personal preferences: Add more vegetables, such as frozen corn or cauliflower, or briny olives or capers; skip the greenery, or make a grain salad by swapping the pasta for farro.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

• Salt and black pepper
• About 20 ounces cheese tortellini
• 1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
• 1 (10- to 12-ounce) jar sliced roasted red peppers, drained
• 2 ounces salami or soppressata, cut into bite-size pieces
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• Crushed red pepper
• 3 big handfuls baby arugula

Preparation:

1. In a pot of heavily salted water, boil the tortellini according to package directions. Drain into a colander and shake dry. Add the red onion to the colander and rinse the pasta and onion under cold water until the pasta is cool. Shake dry. Dry the pot and return the tortellini and onion to it.

2. Add the peppers, salami, oil and vinegar and stir to combine. Season to taste with salt, black pepper and crushed red pepper until the salad is flavorful. Stir in the arugula. (If making ahead, pack the arugula on top of the pasta in an airtight container, refrigerate for up to 3 days, then stir to combine.)

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

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In this recipe from our latest cookbook, “ Milk Street Backroads Italy, ” we use Japanese panko breadcrumbs, which have a neutral flavor and a light and fluffy but coarse texture. It greatly streamlines the meatball-making process, eliminating the need to remove the crusts from fresh bread, soak it in water and squeeze out excess moisture. Panko only needs to be moistened with water and it’s ready to use.

Don’t be shy about mixing the panko-meat mixture with your hands. It takes a few minutes to work the mixture together until homogeneous. To help the meatballs keep their shape, chill them for 15 to 20 minutes before baking.

Neapolitans serve their meatballs with a basic tomato sauce they refer to as “ragù.” After baking, be sure to let the meatballs rest for about 10 minutes before adding them to the sauce. Pecorino is used two ways in this recipe. A chunk is simmered in the sauce, and a portion is grated both in and over the meatballs. Serve with warm, crusty bread or pasta alongside. Though the latter isn’t traditional, it makes a fine accompaniment.

Neapolitan Meatballs with Ragù

Start to finish: 50 minutes Servings: 6 to 8

Ingredients:

• 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more to serve 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper
• 6 medium garlic cloves, finely grated
• 1½ teaspoons red pepper flakes, divided
• 6½ ounces (2½ cups) panko breadcrumbs
• 3 ounces pecorino Romano cheese, 2 ounces finely grated (1 cup), 1 ounce as a chunk, plus more grated, to serve
• 1 large egg, plus 1 large egg yolk, beaten together
• 1½ pounds 90 percent lean ground beef
• Two 28-ounce cans whole peeled tomatoes
• 6 to 8 large basil leaves

Directions

Heat the oven to 475°F with a rack in the middle position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment and mist with cooking spray. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and ¼ teaspoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and 1 teaspoon of the pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat, then transfer half of the onion mixture to a large bowl.

In a medium bowl, combine the panko and 1¼ cups water; press the panko into the water and let stand until fully softened, about 5 minutes. Mash with your hands to a smooth paste, then add to the bowl with the onion mixture. Using a fork, mix until well combined and smooth. Stir in the grated cheese, beaten eggs, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, ¾ teaspoon salt and 2 teaspoons black pepper. Add the meat and mix with your hands until completely homogeneous.

Using a ½-cup dry measuring cup, divide the mixture into 8 portions. Using your hands, shape each into a compact ball and place on the prepared baking sheet, spacing them evenly apart. Refrigerate uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes. Re-shape the meatballs if they have flattened slightly, then bake until lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Let cool on the baking sheet set on a wire rack for about 10 minutes.

While the meatballs cook, in a food processor or blender, puree the tomatoes with their juices one can at a time, until smooth, about 30 seconds, transferring the puree to a large bowl. Return the Dutch oven to medium and heat the remaining onion mixture, stirring, until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, remaining ½ teaspoon pepper flakes, the basil and the chunk of cheese. Bring to a simmer over medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Using a large spoon, carefully transfer the meatballs to the sauce, then, using 2 spoons, turn each to coat. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce to medium-low, cover and cook for 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let stand, covered, for about 5 minutes to allow the meatballs to firm up slightly. Remove and discard the pecorino chunk. Serve with additional grated cheese.

— EDITOR’S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap

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